"Close your eyes, child, and look at what I'll show you.
Let your mind go reeling out and let the breezes blow you.
"
- Jerry Merrick, Follow

TODAY’S ROUTE:
Monett, MO to Hot Springs, AR: SR-37 South through Cassville to Gateway, US-62 West through Garfield to Pea Ridge National Military Park, East on US-62 to Harrison, continuing East on US-65 across the Buffalo River, turning West on SR-74 to Snowball, then South on SR-377 to Witts Springs, then SR-27 South through Hector and Dover, to SR-87 South through Russellville, Ola, and Hollis to Hot Springs. (
MAP)

THE DETAILS:
By the time I wake this morning, I’m in a better mood. Maybe some rest was all I needed. And when this black kitten wanders into my room as I’m loading the bike, I’m actually feeling quite chipper. After all, what do I have to be in a bad mood about? I’m living a dream. I name my newfound feline friend Jingles, and think about taking him with me. Then I remember I’m not really a cat person.

A few miles into Arkansas, and I arrive at Pea Ridge National Military Park. It’s the site of “The Battle that Saved Missouri for the Union”, and the battles fought here in March of 1862 kept Missouri protected from invasion by the Confederate army. Pea Ridge also marked the first Civil War battle in which Indian troops participated. About 1,000 Cherokees fought here as part of the Confederate army.

I drive the park’s loop road and then head southeast through Eureka Springs and into the Arkansas Ozarks. The roads around here, with gently sloping hills and deciduous forests remind me of Dutchess County in New York, where I grew up and later learned to ride a motorcycle. That familiar feeling of fall rushes through me. That certain scent and mood hangs in the air. Warm colors of changing leaves are a welcome sight, and the memories of turning years saturate my brain with each breath of cool autumn air.

The Buffalo National River winds a serpentine path across northwestern Arkansas, beginning as a trickle in the Boston Mountains and flowing for 150 miles to the east into the White River. The Buffalo flows past massive sandstone and limestone cliffs, following what is likely an ancient riverbed. Fully wild and protected, the river is one of the few remaining unpolluted waterways in the lower 48 states. The water level is low now, but come spring there must be some good rafting and kayaking opportunities around here.

Speaking of good opportunities, the roads are getting exciting again, with curves and windy routes. I have to wake up from the riding slumber I’ve been in for the past week. After those straight, flat roads I’ve been on lately, I almost have to learn how to ride again. Leaning into the turns on the Route 7 Scenic Byway feels great. I ride south through the Ozark National Forest, push through Russellville, and then return to the serenity of the Ouachita National Forest.

I come up quickly on a school bus heading south towards Hot Springs. Within seconds, I see dozens of smiling faces pressed up against the glass, trying to get a look at me from the back of the bus. The kids on the bus are waving and smiling, and yelling with excitement. I pass them with a wave, and a grin on my face. I think I made their day. I know they made mine.

I reach Hot Springs and head straight up to the Hot Spring Mountain Tower, a Hot Springs landmark since 1877, with 140-mile views. But it is November, and even though the sun has not yet set, the tower closed at 5 PM. I’m minutes late. Oh well, I won’t let that ruin my day. I’m still smiling from those kids on that bus.

THE DAILY TAKE:
Miles Today: 303.8
Total Miles: 23,882
Time on Motorcycle: 6 Hours 1 Minutes
Average Speed: 50.5 MPH
States Visited today: 2 (MO, AR)
Total States Visited: 36
National Park Service Passport Stamps 2
NPS Stamp Totals: 181 Stamps, 33 States
Weather: Same old, same old. Sunny and Clear.
Species of fish found in the Buffalo River: 60

SEEN ON THE ROAD:
“Crooked and Steep, Next 6 1/2 Miles, Drive With Care” – road sign on US-62 south of Gateway.

RANDOM PASSINGS:
I’ve been seeing these Waffle House restaurants all over the place as I’ve entered the south. And I’m kind of curious to try one out. Tonight I don’t have too many dinner choices, as the motel I’m staying at isn’t near much, so I give Waffle House a try. My review? Well, let’s just say I won’t be eating at any more Waffle Houses. Not only was the food lousy, but the clientele left much to be desired as well. There haven’t been many places I’ve been where I’ve felt uneasy, or unsafe. But I wasn’t very comfortable at the Hot Springs Waffle House. That’s been two horrible dinners in a row. Let’s hope I can break that streak tomorrow.

 


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